Dientes de Navarino - Navarinos Teeth

Most of the people say Ushuaia in Argentina is Fin del Mundo, but actually it is Puerto Williams in Chile. And that is where we went, from the northern most point of South-America to the southern most. Or at least where we could get.

Like I told you getting to Isla Navarino wasn't that easy. Flights were booked weeks advance and ferry was full. Long story shorten, we got the flights!

Puerto Williams was actually much bigger than I thought. We only bought some more snacks for our trek, went for carabineros (police) to let them know we are leaving for the trek and coming back following Saturday. And we were off! First nights spot was incredible, river right next to us, fire and a table!! Evening was so beautiful and peaceful, camping on its best!

Second day we did Bandero Hill summit with huge Chilean flag on the top, gorgeous view towards Beagle Channel and the mountain range of Tierra del Fuego. Basicly we were looking Argentina from Chile :) Route continued on hillside which wasn't pleasant at all!! It was ao steep and rocky, rolling sand and barely room to put your feet on the path. Rob almost lost it, I always forget how much he is scared of heights. We met a lady who had lost her backpack 'cause it had fallen down from the cliff.. Weather was good to us, made it to the Australia pass even though from the snow. We only got little drizzle in the afternoon when we passed frozen Del Paso Lagoon. Second night we spent next to a beaver dams.

Our plan changed when we woke up. It was raining and little later snowing! No point getting up and trying to summit Bettinelli. So we stayed inside the tent. Afternoon it eased so we continued on the circuit. Passed two more lakes, Escondido was right in the middle of the mountains, good reflection to Navarinos teeth. Few more passes ahead, Ventarron being the best one! View was absolutely fantastic and the fact that we could see silhuet of Cape Horn made it even better. It probably wasn't The Cape Horn but one of the island part of the group. Anyway, it felt magical :D few happy tiers rolled on my cheecks, we have come all this way! Third night we camped quite high (regreted that later) but evening was so nice again and we wanted to enjoy the view towards Laguna Martillo.

Yes, never camp in the hillside. I barely slept at all. Wind was so strong and it really felt like the tent would break or blow away! Again we had very lazy morning when we were just waiting for the wind to stop. When it did, we packed our stuff and left without even having a breakfast. We stopped at the bottom, on the woods to make some tea and porridge. Big day ahead of us, Virginia pass, the highest one with big wind gusts which can knock you down.. Didn't sound so tempting with already quite high wind. Climb to the top was piece of cake, who cares about little slurps on a muddy rivers. But coming down.. Oh boy! I wasn't so scared for myself but for Rob. There wasn't a path at all. Cliff with hanging snow and falling rocks, and that was our way down!! I really thougth that are we just stupid or crazy? We made it, came down slowly, step by step. Continued little bit further from Laguna Guanacos. Perfect little spot on the woods.

Last day we were bushwacking through the woods again. Made it to the road by midday and got a lift to town. Driver told us that there was a lady found dead few days ago in the moubtains.. No it couldn't be true. But when we went to the police station to sign us back from the trek they confirmed that, that the same lady we had seen, who had lost her backpack had slipped and fell down from the slope and hit her head on a rock. Awefull! That is horrible! 

So now I am more than ready to say our trekking has come to an end. We will only do Fitz Roy in Argentina and then it is done! No more slippery rocks and steep hills, sweaty and muddy hiking boots (which are almost breaking apart), no more stinky clothes, greasy hair and no shower for days, and especially no more trangia food.

Cabo Froward

Our plan was to go to Punta Arenas and take the ferry to Puerto Williams on Thursday. Austral Broom has this stupid system that foreing people can only buy the ticket 24h before. And only from the town you are leaving from. So we travelled to Arenas, walked to the office to find out that all tickets had been sold already. Day before when we asked in Natales they still had plenty of tickets left! Okey new plan, we will fly. Except all flight were full next weeks..

So we found this trek to the  southern most point of South-America (on mainland). And I tell you it was the hardest trek I have ever done. Four days and 100km, river crossings and proper climbing!

We got a ride to kilometer sign 53, still 18km to go before the actual trek starts. No cars passed us so we walked. Path followed pretty much the coastline, on a soft sandy beach. Not good. Two dogs followed us from the lighthouse to bring us joy :) Last stretch of the day we had to cross this very wet and sponchy swamp and of course it started to rain also. When you have already walked more than 35km smile was very much out of the question. We found a good and dry spot to put our tent but then we realized there was no water anywhere!

We needed to get up early the next day 'cause we new we have two rivers to cross, knee high or neck high, depending on the tides. Low tide was in the morning but when we got to the river after nine, it still looked really high.. Shoes off, pants off. Wasn't enough. Had to turn back and take rest of the clothes off also and carry backpacks over the shoulder. I almost lost it. That sea water was freezing!!! Barely could feel my toes and when you are standing naked on a beach, trying to dry youself when it rains and put clothes on when wind blows, you are thinking what the hell am I doing!? Better get moving, another river waiting to be crossed..

Second river crossing went better, water was lower and there was marks where to cross. But still we had to take all our clothes off again. Our new dog Chaser was a good swimmer but Nuisance wasn't. She tried to get on my biggyback leaving huge scratches on my back! Autch that hurt. We saw many dolphins on our way, one baby seal on the shore, probably a whale (itvwas much bigger than seals but it was quite far away) lots of birds and most of all TREE TRUNKS! Storm had fallen so many trees, it was like a maze, proper parcouring with packbacks!!

We left our backs 6km before Cabo Froward, thinking we will make it back before dark, only few kilometers to go. But tide was hige, we really had troubles to find our way on the rocks, beach was full of tree trunks and no shoreline to walk on. When we had to cross to the woods and there was no sign of a path or marks we gave up. It was already 5pm and we both knew we are not going to make it to the cross. Sometimes you have to admit the defeat. I think doggies were happy to turn around also.

Third day, 6am wake up, two rivers to be crossed. Damn, wasn't looking forward those at all. But this time we knew where to cross and water was lower. Last river, last meter I hit my toes on a rock, lost my balance and properly scooped water with my shoes. Few swear words were shouted! Only 20km to go with wet shoes. Nuisance was whining every hill and hard bit we came a cross, I thought that she must be young and not done the route before. Chaser on the otherhand ran always in front of us, knowing where to go. Chasing every single bird, that is why we called him Chaser :)

We got back late afternoon, returned the dogs to the lighthouse and got invited to stay the night there. Yes, please! Turned out that Nuisance name was Chita and she was only one year old, Chasers real name was Sergio and he had done the route many times. It was so nice to stay inside, I got my shoes dried out on a fireplace and we didn't have to unpack our backs.

It was definitely interesting trek, with one extra day we would have made it. It was the hardest one, very poorly marked and it wasn't about how fit you were. It really depend on the tides how easy or hard it was.

Torres del Paine

Probably the most known trekking route in Chile, and I can't tell you how happy I am we were here 'off season'. We wanted to do 'O' circuit but it was closed because of the snow. So we just did the 'W'.

1st day
Took a morning bus from Natales to the park, registered and continued one more hour on a bus, we desided to do the route from west to east. Most of it was pretty flat, walking on pampas, mountains straight ahead of us. We didn't see them yet because of the clouds. Just before our first campsite, Paine Grande, Lake Pehoe was shining in front of us. This marvellous bluegreen lake, never seen anything like that before!

2nd day
Downsides of hiking!! Rain!! And we are not talking little rain now, we had been warned about changing weather conditions.. That rain came in showers, drizzle, down pour, horizontal, sleet and snow. After breakfast, campsite had shelter so we were able to cook under the roof, we waited a little bit and left when it looked it will ease. Nope. Our uphill walk to Lake Grey and the glacier was misarable. We were completely soaked, I could have poured water out from my shoes! And at one point when it came down as sleet/snow, we were like two michellin men. It was not fun at all, my face was hurting so much from the wind and sharp raindrops.

It was worth it in the end. We started to see these little icebergs on the lake so we knew we must be close. Glacier Grey is the biggest one I have seen! It is part of Patagonian icefield which is the third largest in the world after Antarctica and Greenland. It was so cool! We got back early afternoon and cooked dinner at the shelter. We were cold and wet, still at least 4 hours before sleepy time. We packed our stuff in the rain and started walking towards campsite Italiano. That was the only option to keepbus warm. But that following night in a wet tent with all our damp clothes was freezing!!

3rd day
Yes, clear sky!! And decent amount of wind! Hanged all our stuff outside, all around the campsite to get them little dryer. Noticed that I had forgotten two cereal bars (only a wrappers left) in my backpack and now it had three mouse size wholes on it! Those little fuckers!!

We wanted to hike up to campsite Britannico, but it turned out to be impossible. Yesterdays rain had brought snow till knee high, path was so hard to follow and marks were burried under the snow. But it was so beautiful!! Proper winter wonderland :D We enjoyed ourselves the whole morning, played in the snow and watched a great view towards the mountains and Glacier Frances. Oh, and we had heard cracking ice before but now we really saw an avalanche!! That was pretty cool but so scary. It took a while to get back because Rob kept sliding down every hill (not on purpose!) We changed campsite to Frances, they had toilets, showers and inside area to dry your clothes.

4th day,
Clear day again, slept like a baby with dry clothes! This day was going to be long, so we set off early. Passed lakes, and mostly walked on a easy trail going little up and down. Last stretch from Chileno to our last campsite Torres was all uphill, in a muddy and soggy trail. We still arrived early and lucky we did, so then we got to choose our pitch from the not-so-snowy ones! Yes, whole place was full of snow.

Every day after we finished our hike, we made hot chocolates. And because it was my birthday Rob treated me with crackers and dulche de leche (manjar)! Well, lets be honest. I ate the manjar straight from the jar with my spoon in the end :) Evening was still clear so we desided to push it little bit more and hike up to see the towers. It kept us warm and it was nice with not so many people. Got back just before it got dark, time for another cold night!

5th day
Woke up 5.30am, put our clothes and headlamps on, packed some snacks and made another summit to the mirador. WOW! I have always preferred sunrises to sunsets, and this just confirns it once again. Those towers were in flames! It was wonderful to feel the first sunstrokes and see everything changing colours. It was magical and I was just smiling like loonatic and felt like dancing. I was probably the happiest girl up there!

Walk back all the way down wasn't that special. Lot of dayhikers going up or people starting their 'W'. I thought there were quite many people on the trail already, but when we asked one of the rangers he almost laughed. Now the number was around 200 people per day, January and February when it is the high season, 3600 people enter the park one day. 3600!! That would have ruined the whole experience for me. Thank good we did it now.

Even though that trek is over priced and very crouded, I must say it is just something what you have to do. Four full days of walking (first and last only being half ones), about 98km! It wasn't technical or challenging, only the weather made it challenging. You can camp and be smelly for four days or pay loads of money by staying in refugios and lodges and eat three course meal every day. It is up to you. But you see tons of mountains, lakes, glaciers, birds and other animals. We saw few foxes and one guy said he saw a puma!

Patagonian fjords vol.2

Another ferry ride from Caleta Tortel to Puerto Natales, 41h and 700km. This wasn't our original plan because it was really pricy! But our first plan to cross to Argentina didn't work because there wasn't any boats to take us cross the lake. We are too early in Patagonia, nothing is open and buses are not running yet, season starts in November.

Caleta Tortel. Beautiful and most interesting village so far. Everything was built on stilts and walkways were bridges and broadwalks, the road had been built in 80s. So pretty and charming, it was actually quite a maze to try to follow all those paths! We arrived one day before because we wanted to be sure to get those ferry tickets. We had the most interesting camping spot, in front of a hospedaje on a platform which was built on a hill. It wasn't the best camping weather, non-stop rain whole the time!

Ferry was much nicer than the one I took earlier. Proper seats, pillows and blankets, showers, food included and choose of a movies to watch. Four gringos on board only. We met Sepp and Janine already on a bus from Cochrane to Tortel. We had good time together, Plump was back in the game :) It was raining the whole time so lot of reading and playing. But we saw dolphins and seals again!

Cerro Castillo

Stunning, absolutely stunning!

We hitchiked from Coyhaique to Villa Cerro Castillo. Met Laura and Jonas plus little Lukas (whom Rob had met few days earlier) by chance and had lunch with them. They gave us a lift to CONAF office where we registrated for the hike. Office was 7km from the trail on Laguna Chiguay (who puts office so far from the trail?!) but luckily we got a lift back down. First day was pretty boring, just following a 4x4 track, bunch of dead trees and logs all around. We crossed many streams and three rivers so we had to take our shoes off. Water was so freezing! Seriously, the burning and stinging feeling in the toes.. Auts! After 12km walking we came to the first camp and because it had started to rain and there was a french couple staying, we decided to stay also.

Tuesday started nicely and flat, but then started to climb up quite steep for few hours through the pass. It was full of snow, we tried to walk on other people steps because snow was soft already and wasn't carrying our weight. Damn it was hard work! But beautiful, so incredible views for the mountains and glaciers (plural). Coming down wasn't any easier. It was so steep and with scrambling rocks I was so scared of falling. We continued little further from the second camp. Another steep uphill climb and we put our tent below the mountain just before the snowline. It was almost 15km, but we got there early. 4pm, sun was shining and we barely had any wind. We took ice cold showers from the river, slow cooked our curry meal (i start to be very good at making currys, Rob has thought me well) and enjoyed the magnificent view with tiny snowflakes coming down.

Second night was colder. It went below zero, ground was white when I got up and water was frozen in our bottles. Started early and spent half an hour trying to find the path which we lost because we were too busy admiring the frozen lake. Found it eventually and started another climb on rocks and snow. Everything was totally worth it when we got to the top. 360° view for mountains, glaciers, lakes, rivers and town. Once again I was speecless, I actually wanted to cry because I was so happy. I keep forgetting how lucky I am, I am not even 29 (yet :D) and been able to visit 50 different countries, met so many amazing people, done great adventures and seen so much. I have learnt to appreciate every moment of it but also appriciate everyday life with my family.

Coming down wasn't pleasent at all. Too many sharp, moving rocks. My toes were squashed and my legs so shaky. We skipped one extra bit and headed towards the town. Third day was probably 14km, we got it little shorter because nice farmer gave us a lift for the last kilometers. And I don't think I could have done much more. I was so sore. My whole body was aching. I was ready for hot shower. But getting hot water meant chopping our own firewood and making a fire and waiting the water to heat up. Joys of travelling in Patagonia! So I settled with cold shower and punddled up afterward and crawled to my sleeping bag.

Quellon to Chacabuco

Well, not sailing sailing. I took ferry from Quellon, south of Chiloe, to Puerto Chacabuco. Some journey through islands, fjords and mountains, and it was amazing!

We left wednesday evening and we were very lucky, whole thursday was so beautiful, sun was shining, we were able to see the islands and mountains around us. Best part, I even saw two dolphins!! It was incredible :) By the evening there started to be more and more snowpeaked mountains and we saw few glaciers also. Only foreingers were me and Steve from Minnesota. We spent the evening playing yatzy, I won!

Rob was waiting for me at Coyhaique. It was happy reunion after three weeks seperation. We couchsurfed at Andreas and Lalos place. It was great, little cabin just outside of town. Saturday we were also invited for Eduardos birthday party, typical chilean barbeque (asado). All conversations were in spanish but it was so nice and everyone were super friendly, we were part of the group and food was so delicious. It made me miss my friends, our girls nights and eating fiestas :)

Today we went for a hike to Reserva Nacional Coyhaique. Summited Cerro Cinchao, but I think the walk through the forest was much nicer! I don't think I have ever seen so many trees covered in old man beards. I felt like I was in the enchanted forest :) it was really good dayhike. Evening we spent packing our bags, bought more food for hiking, stocked up with money (here won't be ATMs anymore!) and made a fabulous curry!

Ps. 100 days left

Chiloe

Second biggest island of South-America, known from its wooden churches and colorful stilt houses. I took bus straight to Castro, and kept it as my base for the daytrips.

Saturday I took bus to the other side of the island, to Muelle de las Almas, Dock of the souls. Beoynd that point it is only sea. Story says that spirits wonder here to find the next life.. It was few kilometer walk to the shore. Landscape, green fields and amazing cliffs made me wordless once again. It was so beautiful and I felt full of energy so I decided to walk back. All in all it turned out to be little over 20km, but I had all the time I wanted, weather was just perfect, I had plenty of snacks so why not. I got lift back to Castro from local family and I was very happy to notice I manage to speak spanish the whole one hour drive :) well done me!

Sunday was market day in Dalcahue. First I took bus and ferry to nearby island, Quinchao. Achoa had one of the beautiful wooden churches (UNESCO listed) and great view from the beach. I made my way back hitchiking to check Dalcahues market. So many nice handicrafts, woollen clothes and wooden sculptures, home made pies and cakes, music and dance. Just like the Sunday I wish to have every week. Easy, chill out, no stress, stroll around and not do much. Just perfect!

Tuesday I hiked up to Cole Cole beach, part of Chiloes national park. Rob had given me very good instructions how to get there. It was totally deserted, nobody else around. It was so peaceful and beautiful. I definitely prefer travelling here off season but it has its downsides. Not so many buses or cars passing. I ended up walking on the road more than an hour so my dayhike was almost 30km. My legs were so tired when I got back to Castro. These last few days I think I have walked almost 100km!

I have enjoyed my time here, taking it easy and be one of the family. Alexandro and Irena at hostal Gamboa has been so nice to me that it is sad to leave. Ill take ferry to the mainland where Rob will be waiting for me :)