Most of the people say Ushuaia in Argentina is Fin del Mundo, but actually it is Puerto Williams in Chile. And that is where we went, from the northern most point of South-America to the southern most. Or at least where we could get.
Like I told you getting to Isla Navarino wasn't that easy. Flights were booked weeks advance and ferry was full. Long story shorten, we got the flights!
Puerto Williams was actually much bigger than I thought. We only bought some more snacks for our trek, went for carabineros (police) to let them know we are leaving for the trek and coming back following Saturday. And we were off! First nights spot was incredible, river right next to us, fire and a table!! Evening was so beautiful and peaceful, camping on its best!
Second day we did Bandero Hill summit with huge Chilean flag on the top, gorgeous view towards Beagle Channel and the mountain range of Tierra del Fuego. Basicly we were looking Argentina from Chile :) Route continued on hillside which wasn't pleasant at all!! It was ao steep and rocky, rolling sand and barely room to put your feet on the path. Rob almost lost it, I always forget how much he is scared of heights. We met a lady who had lost her backpack 'cause it had fallen down from the cliff.. Weather was good to us, made it to the Australia pass even though from the snow. We only got little drizzle in the afternoon when we passed frozen Del Paso Lagoon. Second night we spent next to a beaver dams.
Our plan changed when we woke up. It was raining and little later snowing! No point getting up and trying to summit Bettinelli. So we stayed inside the tent. Afternoon it eased so we continued on the circuit. Passed two more lakes, Escondido was right in the middle of the mountains, good reflection to Navarinos teeth. Few more passes ahead, Ventarron being the best one! View was absolutely fantastic and the fact that we could see silhuet of Cape Horn made it even better. It probably wasn't The Cape Horn but one of the island part of the group. Anyway, it felt magical :D few happy tiers rolled on my cheecks, we have come all this way! Third night we camped quite high (regreted that later) but evening was so nice again and we wanted to enjoy the view towards Laguna Martillo.
Yes, never camp in the hillside. I barely slept at all. Wind was so strong and it really felt like the tent would break or blow away! Again we had very lazy morning when we were just waiting for the wind to stop. When it did, we packed our stuff and left without even having a breakfast. We stopped at the bottom, on the woods to make some tea and porridge. Big day ahead of us, Virginia pass, the highest one with big wind gusts which can knock you down.. Didn't sound so tempting with already quite high wind. Climb to the top was piece of cake, who cares about little slurps on a muddy rivers. But coming down.. Oh boy! I wasn't so scared for myself but for Rob. There wasn't a path at all. Cliff with hanging snow and falling rocks, and that was our way down!! I really thougth that are we just stupid or crazy? We made it, came down slowly, step by step. Continued little bit further from Laguna Guanacos. Perfect little spot on the woods.
Last day we were bushwacking through the woods again. Made it to the road by midday and got a lift to town. Driver told us that there was a lady found dead few days ago in the moubtains.. No it couldn't be true. But when we went to the police station to sign us back from the trek they confirmed that, that the same lady we had seen, who had lost her backpack had slipped and fell down from the slope and hit her head on a rock. Awefull! That is horrible!
So now I am more than ready to say our trekking has come to an end. We will only do Fitz Roy in Argentina and then it is done! No more slippery rocks and steep hills, sweaty and muddy hiking boots (which are almost breaking apart), no more stinky clothes, greasy hair and no shower for days, and especially no more trangia food.
Like I told you getting to Isla Navarino wasn't that easy. Flights were booked weeks advance and ferry was full. Long story shorten, we got the flights!
Puerto Williams was actually much bigger than I thought. We only bought some more snacks for our trek, went for carabineros (police) to let them know we are leaving for the trek and coming back following Saturday. And we were off! First nights spot was incredible, river right next to us, fire and a table!! Evening was so beautiful and peaceful, camping on its best!
Second day we did Bandero Hill summit with huge Chilean flag on the top, gorgeous view towards Beagle Channel and the mountain range of Tierra del Fuego. Basicly we were looking Argentina from Chile :) Route continued on hillside which wasn't pleasant at all!! It was ao steep and rocky, rolling sand and barely room to put your feet on the path. Rob almost lost it, I always forget how much he is scared of heights. We met a lady who had lost her backpack 'cause it had fallen down from the cliff.. Weather was good to us, made it to the Australia pass even though from the snow. We only got little drizzle in the afternoon when we passed frozen Del Paso Lagoon. Second night we spent next to a beaver dams.
Our plan changed when we woke up. It was raining and little later snowing! No point getting up and trying to summit Bettinelli. So we stayed inside the tent. Afternoon it eased so we continued on the circuit. Passed two more lakes, Escondido was right in the middle of the mountains, good reflection to Navarinos teeth. Few more passes ahead, Ventarron being the best one! View was absolutely fantastic and the fact that we could see silhuet of Cape Horn made it even better. It probably wasn't The Cape Horn but one of the island part of the group. Anyway, it felt magical :D few happy tiers rolled on my cheecks, we have come all this way! Third night we camped quite high (regreted that later) but evening was so nice again and we wanted to enjoy the view towards Laguna Martillo.
Yes, never camp in the hillside. I barely slept at all. Wind was so strong and it really felt like the tent would break or blow away! Again we had very lazy morning when we were just waiting for the wind to stop. When it did, we packed our stuff and left without even having a breakfast. We stopped at the bottom, on the woods to make some tea and porridge. Big day ahead of us, Virginia pass, the highest one with big wind gusts which can knock you down.. Didn't sound so tempting with already quite high wind. Climb to the top was piece of cake, who cares about little slurps on a muddy rivers. But coming down.. Oh boy! I wasn't so scared for myself but for Rob. There wasn't a path at all. Cliff with hanging snow and falling rocks, and that was our way down!! I really thougth that are we just stupid or crazy? We made it, came down slowly, step by step. Continued little bit further from Laguna Guanacos. Perfect little spot on the woods.
Last day we were bushwacking through the woods again. Made it to the road by midday and got a lift to town. Driver told us that there was a lady found dead few days ago in the moubtains.. No it couldn't be true. But when we went to the police station to sign us back from the trek they confirmed that, that the same lady we had seen, who had lost her backpack had slipped and fell down from the slope and hit her head on a rock. Awefull! That is horrible!
So now I am more than ready to say our trekking has come to an end. We will only do Fitz Roy in Argentina and then it is done! No more slippery rocks and steep hills, sweaty and muddy hiking boots (which are almost breaking apart), no more stinky clothes, greasy hair and no shower for days, and especially no more trangia food.
