10/10/2016

Cerro Castillo

Stunning, absolutely stunning!

We hitchiked from Coyhaique to Villa Cerro Castillo. Met Laura and Jonas plus little Lukas (whom Rob had met few days earlier) by chance and had lunch with them. They gave us a lift to CONAF office where we registrated for the hike. Office was 7km from the trail on Laguna Chiguay (who puts office so far from the trail?!) but luckily we got a lift back down. First day was pretty boring, just following a 4x4 track, bunch of dead trees and logs all around. We crossed many streams and three rivers so we had to take our shoes off. Water was so freezing! Seriously, the burning and stinging feeling in the toes.. Auts! After 12km walking we came to the first camp and because it had started to rain and there was a french couple staying, we decided to stay also.

Tuesday started nicely and flat, but then started to climb up quite steep for few hours through the pass. It was full of snow, we tried to walk on other people steps because snow was soft already and wasn't carrying our weight. Damn it was hard work! But beautiful, so incredible views for the mountains and glaciers (plural). Coming down wasn't any easier. It was so steep and with scrambling rocks I was so scared of falling. We continued little further from the second camp. Another steep uphill climb and we put our tent below the mountain just before the snowline. It was almost 15km, but we got there early. 4pm, sun was shining and we barely had any wind. We took ice cold showers from the river, slow cooked our curry meal (i start to be very good at making currys, Rob has thought me well) and enjoyed the magnificent view with tiny snowflakes coming down.

Second night was colder. It went below zero, ground was white when I got up and water was frozen in our bottles. Started early and spent half an hour trying to find the path which we lost because we were too busy admiring the frozen lake. Found it eventually and started another climb on rocks and snow. Everything was totally worth it when we got to the top. 360° view for mountains, glaciers, lakes, rivers and town. Once again I was speecless, I actually wanted to cry because I was so happy. I keep forgetting how lucky I am, I am not even 29 (yet :D) and been able to visit 50 different countries, met so many amazing people, done great adventures and seen so much. I have learnt to appreciate every moment of it but also appriciate everyday life with my family.

Coming down wasn't pleasent at all. Too many sharp, moving rocks. My toes were squashed and my legs so shaky. We skipped one extra bit and headed towards the town. Third day was probably 14km, we got it little shorter because nice farmer gave us a lift for the last kilometers. And I don't think I could have done much more. I was so sore. My whole body was aching. I was ready for hot shower. But getting hot water meant chopping our own firewood and making a fire and waiting the water to heat up. Joys of travelling in Patagonia! So I settled with cold shower and punddled up afterward and crawled to my sleeping bag.