Probably the most known trekking route in Chile, and I can't tell you how happy I am we were here 'off season'. We wanted to do 'O' circuit but it was closed because of the snow. So we just did the 'W'.
1st day
Took a morning bus from Natales to the park, registered and continued one more hour on a bus, we desided to do the route from west to east. Most of it was pretty flat, walking on pampas, mountains straight ahead of us. We didn't see them yet because of the clouds. Just before our first campsite, Paine Grande, Lake Pehoe was shining in front of us. This marvellous bluegreen lake, never seen anything like that before!
Took a morning bus from Natales to the park, registered and continued one more hour on a bus, we desided to do the route from west to east. Most of it was pretty flat, walking on pampas, mountains straight ahead of us. We didn't see them yet because of the clouds. Just before our first campsite, Paine Grande, Lake Pehoe was shining in front of us. This marvellous bluegreen lake, never seen anything like that before!
2nd day
Downsides of hiking!! Rain!! And we are not talking little rain now, we had been warned about changing weather conditions.. That rain came in showers, drizzle, down pour, horizontal, sleet and snow. After breakfast, campsite had shelter so we were able to cook under the roof, we waited a little bit and left when it looked it will ease. Nope. Our uphill walk to Lake Grey and the glacier was misarable. We were completely soaked, I could have poured water out from my shoes! And at one point when it came down as sleet/snow, we were like two michellin men. It was not fun at all, my face was hurting so much from the wind and sharp raindrops.
Downsides of hiking!! Rain!! And we are not talking little rain now, we had been warned about changing weather conditions.. That rain came in showers, drizzle, down pour, horizontal, sleet and snow. After breakfast, campsite had shelter so we were able to cook under the roof, we waited a little bit and left when it looked it will ease. Nope. Our uphill walk to Lake Grey and the glacier was misarable. We were completely soaked, I could have poured water out from my shoes! And at one point when it came down as sleet/snow, we were like two michellin men. It was not fun at all, my face was hurting so much from the wind and sharp raindrops.
It was worth it in the end. We started to see these little icebergs on the lake so we knew we must be close. Glacier Grey is the biggest one I have seen! It is part of Patagonian icefield which is the third largest in the world after Antarctica and Greenland. It was so cool! We got back early afternoon and cooked dinner at the shelter. We were cold and wet, still at least 4 hours before sleepy time. We packed our stuff in the rain and started walking towards campsite Italiano. That was the only option to keepbus warm. But that following night in a wet tent with all our damp clothes was freezing!!
3rd day
Yes, clear sky!! And decent amount of wind! Hanged all our stuff outside, all around the campsite to get them little dryer. Noticed that I had forgotten two cereal bars (only a wrappers left) in my backpack and now it had three mouse size wholes on it! Those little fuckers!!
Yes, clear sky!! And decent amount of wind! Hanged all our stuff outside, all around the campsite to get them little dryer. Noticed that I had forgotten two cereal bars (only a wrappers left) in my backpack and now it had three mouse size wholes on it! Those little fuckers!!
We wanted to hike up to campsite Britannico, but it turned out to be impossible. Yesterdays rain had brought snow till knee high, path was so hard to follow and marks were burried under the snow. But it was so beautiful!! Proper winter wonderland :D We enjoyed ourselves the whole morning, played in the snow and watched a great view towards the mountains and Glacier Frances. Oh, and we had heard cracking ice before but now we really saw an avalanche!! That was pretty cool but so scary. It took a while to get back because Rob kept sliding down every hill (not on purpose!) We changed campsite to Frances, they had toilets, showers and inside area to dry your clothes.
4th day,
Clear day again, slept like a baby with dry clothes! This day was going to be long, so we set off early. Passed lakes, and mostly walked on a easy trail going little up and down. Last stretch from Chileno to our last campsite Torres was all uphill, in a muddy and soggy trail. We still arrived early and lucky we did, so then we got to choose our pitch from the not-so-snowy ones! Yes, whole place was full of snow.
Clear day again, slept like a baby with dry clothes! This day was going to be long, so we set off early. Passed lakes, and mostly walked on a easy trail going little up and down. Last stretch from Chileno to our last campsite Torres was all uphill, in a muddy and soggy trail. We still arrived early and lucky we did, so then we got to choose our pitch from the not-so-snowy ones! Yes, whole place was full of snow.
Every day after we finished our hike, we made hot chocolates. And because it was my birthday Rob treated me with crackers and dulche de leche (manjar)! Well, lets be honest. I ate the manjar straight from the jar with my spoon in the end :) Evening was still clear so we desided to push it little bit more and hike up to see the towers. It kept us warm and it was nice with not so many people. Got back just before it got dark, time for another cold night!
5th day
Woke up 5.30am, put our clothes and headlamps on, packed some snacks and made another summit to the mirador. WOW! I have always preferred sunrises to sunsets, and this just confirns it once again. Those towers were in flames! It was wonderful to feel the first sunstrokes and see everything changing colours. It was magical and I was just smiling like loonatic and felt like dancing. I was probably the happiest girl up there!
Woke up 5.30am, put our clothes and headlamps on, packed some snacks and made another summit to the mirador. WOW! I have always preferred sunrises to sunsets, and this just confirns it once again. Those towers were in flames! It was wonderful to feel the first sunstrokes and see everything changing colours. It was magical and I was just smiling like loonatic and felt like dancing. I was probably the happiest girl up there!
Walk back all the way down wasn't that special. Lot of dayhikers going up or people starting their 'W'. I thought there were quite many people on the trail already, but when we asked one of the rangers he almost laughed. Now the number was around 200 people per day, January and February when it is the high season, 3600 people enter the park one day. 3600!! That would have ruined the whole experience for me. Thank good we did it now.
Even though that trek is over priced and very crouded, I must say it is just something what you have to do. Four full days of walking (first and last only being half ones), about 98km! It wasn't technical or challenging, only the weather made it challenging. You can camp and be smelly for four days or pay loads of money by staying in refugios and lodges and eat three course meal every day. It is up to you. But you see tons of mountains, lakes, glaciers, birds and other animals. We saw few foxes and one guy said he saw a puma!
