I know I am crazy and willing to try everything. I love trekking and walking, but mountain climbing has been one of those things on my list. Using harness, crampons and ice ax. When we heard that for Huayna Potosi you don't need climbing experience, that anyone can do it, we were sold. (But now after done it, I wouldn't say anyone can do it. It was shit scary, cold and you need to be pretty fitvand used to the altitude)
First day we picked our clothes and equipments, drove to the Base Camp 4750m. We hiked to the glacier to practise ice climbing and how to use crampons. I tell you, that 15m wall we climbed was hard work and scary! One wrong step and you were hanging on the security robe. Mario told us that the glacier is shrinking five to ten meters every year.. It was much different when he started as a guide. Breakfast, lunch and dinner were really good and I am very happy we chose Refugio Huyana Potosi with its own private lodge. It was really cozy, reminding me of a ski lodge.
Second day after filling breakfast we had time to chill and pack our bags. It was good 'cause I had a headache. I don't know was it from the altitude or badly slept night. It wasn't cold but I was very restless. I was very nervous about the climb. I spent morning snoozing and drinking coca tea. It didn't take long to hike up to the High Camp, 5300m being highest I have ever been! My stomach didn't handle lunch very well on that altitude so I went straight to sleep when we arrived.
Third day we woke up at 00.30, ate breakfast and left. I actually slept really well and my sleeping bag kept me warm the whole night. First hour was easy, it wasn't windy at all so it was 'almost' warm :) Around 3am I started to feel so sleepy, wanted to keep my eyes shut. Glacier was partly so icy and in 45 angle, I was so scared. We reached the top around 6.30 just to see the sunrise. And it was beautiful! It was so windy and cold at the top so not so many pictures were taken. Last 300m were the hardest! We were right on the edge with really slippery icy and falling rocks. When we got down that part I wanted to cry. I was so exhausted, I had given all energy I had. Happy tiers making it to the top but also I was so reliefed that we didn't fall and die. The feeling making it to that high was amazing! It was one of the hardest and tuffest excersizes I have ever done! Rob said that even if somebody would pay him 10000pounds he wouldn't do it again. Rest of the way was nice downhill with warming sunshine. I stumbled with my crampons few times.. Thank good for the safety robe.
I am so happy we did it, but it will take some time that I could do it again. I think those guides are crazy! Umbreto had climbed to the top twice already this week and was going again tomorrow with another group! I need at least a month to recover from this :)
First day we picked our clothes and equipments, drove to the Base Camp 4750m. We hiked to the glacier to practise ice climbing and how to use crampons. I tell you, that 15m wall we climbed was hard work and scary! One wrong step and you were hanging on the security robe. Mario told us that the glacier is shrinking five to ten meters every year.. It was much different when he started as a guide. Breakfast, lunch and dinner were really good and I am very happy we chose Refugio Huyana Potosi with its own private lodge. It was really cozy, reminding me of a ski lodge.
Second day after filling breakfast we had time to chill and pack our bags. It was good 'cause I had a headache. I don't know was it from the altitude or badly slept night. It wasn't cold but I was very restless. I was very nervous about the climb. I spent morning snoozing and drinking coca tea. It didn't take long to hike up to the High Camp, 5300m being highest I have ever been! My stomach didn't handle lunch very well on that altitude so I went straight to sleep when we arrived.
Third day we woke up at 00.30, ate breakfast and left. I actually slept really well and my sleeping bag kept me warm the whole night. First hour was easy, it wasn't windy at all so it was 'almost' warm :) Around 3am I started to feel so sleepy, wanted to keep my eyes shut. Glacier was partly so icy and in 45 angle, I was so scared. We reached the top around 6.30 just to see the sunrise. And it was beautiful! It was so windy and cold at the top so not so many pictures were taken. Last 300m were the hardest! We were right on the edge with really slippery icy and falling rocks. When we got down that part I wanted to cry. I was so exhausted, I had given all energy I had. Happy tiers making it to the top but also I was so reliefed that we didn't fall and die. The feeling making it to that high was amazing! It was one of the hardest and tuffest excersizes I have ever done! Rob said that even if somebody would pay him 10000pounds he wouldn't do it again. Rest of the way was nice downhill with warming sunshine. I stumbled with my crampons few times.. Thank good for the safety robe.
I am so happy we did it, but it will take some time that I could do it again. I think those guides are crazy! Umbreto had climbed to the top twice already this week and was going again tomorrow with another group! I need at least a month to recover from this :)
